Textile fiber is the basic material of fabric (we do not talk about macromolecules), it has two categories: natural fibers and chemical fibers.
1) Natural fibers. regular natural fibers include cotton, hemp, silk and wool. With the development of science and technology, new natural fibers have appeared, such as pineapple leaf fiber and bamboo fiber, which is now widely used. They are all high-quality textile fiber raw materials dedicated to us by nature. Cotton, hemp, bamboo, pineapple leaf fiber is a natural cellulose fiber, ignited by fire quickly charred into ashes, accompanied by the smell of burning grass. Hair and silk fibers are natural animal fibers, which are ignited and zoom and smell of burning hair. Silk fiber is the only long fiber material put into use, which can be as long as several hundred meters. Spider silk fiber under study should also be long fiber, but it has not been put into practical use.
2. Chemical fiber. With the development of chemical industry, chemical fiber has become the main body of textile fiber. It is divided into two categories, one is synthetic fiber, one is recycled fiber.
A, synthetic fiber is petroleum as raw material, by chemical polymerization, the main fiber materials are polyester, nylon, acrylic, vinylon, polypropylene, chloroprene, spandex and so on. They can be cut into different lengths or used directly as filaments as required. Its uniform combustion is characterized by melting into droplets. Polyester fiber has good rigidity, good shape retention and stiffness, and is often blended with cotton and wool. Nylon, also known as nylon, is a more elastic fiber material, and the most wear-resistant, commonly used to do clothing "three mouth", and often used in hosiery products, in recent years, common nylon and viscose fiber interlacing, forming a brocade interlaced fabric. Acrylic is the best thermal synthetic fiber, commonly known as synthetic wool, commonly used as sweater material. Vinylon moisture absorption performance is the best in synthetic fibers, taking performance close to cotton fiber, less civil, low grade, usually used in industrial products, such as ropes, hoses, fishing nets and so on. Polypropylene fiber texture the lightest, the proportion of 0. 91, is currently the lightest textile fiber a material, wear-resistant, wear-resistant, not ball. Chlorinated fiber is not easy to burn, commonly used as knitted underwear, wool and other civilian products, but also used in industrial filter cloth, work clothes, insulation cloth, safety tents and so on. Spandex is the highest elasticity of a fiber material, high elongation, high elasticity, commonly used to do tight products, but because of no coloring, the lowest strength, so the general use of bare silk.
B, regenerated fiber, also known as man-made fiber, is the use of natural materials by pulping and spinning, regenerated cellulose and regenerated protein. One of the most commonly used is viscose fiber (regenerated cellulose fiber), which has the main characteristics of cotton and hemp, but the strength is lower than that of cotton and hemp, and the wet strength is smaller. Regenerative proteins are used less often, and chitin fibers are well established for use in today's medicine. Textile standard state and fiber moisture regain textile materials have certain moisture absorption capacity, which is different in different states. In order to make the moisture absorption of textile materials have certain comparability and facilitate the unified measurement of the weight of textile materials, generally we stipulate the standard atmospheric state, and the provisions of the standard state are unified internationally, but the allowable error range is slightly different. The standard state stipulated in our country is: humidity 65%±3%, temperature 20 ℃ 1±3 ℃. Moisture content: percentage of fiber moisture weight to fiber wet weight, I .e. moisture content = (fiber wet weight-fiber dry weight)/fiber wet weight moisture regain: percentage of fiber moisture weight to fiber dry weight, I .e. moisture regain = (fiber wet weight-fiber dry weight)/fiber dry weight standard moisture regain: the moisture regain of fibers in different atmospheric conditions is different, and the standard moisture regain refers to the moisture regain of fibers in standard conditions. The weight of the fiber is converted according to the national standard moisture regain for conversion transactions. The moisture regain of different fabrics is different, and the comfort of natural fibers is related to their higher moisture regain. Yarn is a bundle of fibers, divided into three types: spun yarn, filament yarn and fancy yarn (here I put special yarn as a separate category). Staple yarn is a bundle material assembled by adding a certain twist or weaving (such as air spinning) of staple fibers. Filament yarn is a bundle of filaments (such as natural silk, chemical filament or rayon) combined together. Fictional yarn is mainly manifested as a change in yarn appearance or color. There are mainly wrapping, wrapping core, bamboo joint, big belly, color dot, waveform, braid, towel, loop, knot, feather, toothbrush, centipede, belt, segment dye, chenille, etc.
The concepts commonly used in yarns are as follows:
1. Yarn twist-the number of twists per unit length. There are Z twist and S twist;
2, combing (carding)-spinning process only through the carding machine only one end of the carding and textile yarn;
3, combing-spinning process using a combing machine to comb the yarn at both ends of the fiber, less impurities, fiber more straight;
Blended-two or two different fibers mixed together to form a yarn;
5. Yarn count-an index used to indicate yarn fineness, mainly including imperial count, metric count, special number and denier number (which will be specially explained later);
6, single yarn-spinning machine directly out of the product, once untwisted that will be scattered, referred to as yarn;
7, strands-two or more than two yarns and twisted together, referred to as thread;
8. Sewing thread-a general term for thread products used for sewing clothing and other sewing products, which will be explained in detail later;
9. New Spinning-Compared with the new spinning method of traditional ring spinning, one end of the spinning process is free, such as air spinning and friction spinning. The yarn has no twist, but is tangled together.
The fineness index of yarn is used to indicate the fineness of yarn. The main indicators are: imperial count, metric count, special number and denier number.
1. Imperial Count (Ne)-Under the common moisture regain, the length of 1 pound of heavy yarn is a multiple of 840 yards, that is to say, 1 pound of heavy yarn is exactly 840 yards long, which is 1 yarn, 1 pound of heavy yarn is 21 × 840 yards long, and the fineness of yarn is 21 pieces, which is written as 21s. The imperial count is a fixed weight system, so the larger the count, the thinner the yarn. The imperial count is not the legal yarn fineness index in China, but it is still widely used in enterprises, especially in the cotton textile industry.
2. Metric count (Nm)-Under the common moisture regain, the length of 1 gram of heavy yarn is a multiple of meters, that is to say, 1 gram of heavy yarn is exactly 1 meter long, which is 1 (male) yarn, 1 gram of heavy yarn is 200 meters long, and the fineness of yarn is 200. Metric count is also fixed weight, so the larger the count, the thinner the yarn. Cotton textile wool textile industry are used.
3, Tex (Tex) number-also known as "number", refers to the 1000 meters long yarn in grams of weight at a given moisture regain rate, it is a fixed-length unit, the greater the weight of the yarn thicker, commonly used to represent wool yarn.
4. Denier (D)-also known as "denier" or (denier: denier), refers to the number of grams of weight of 9000-meter yarn or fiber under the same moisture regain. It is also a fixed-length unit. The larger the weight, the thicker the yarn or fiber. It is commonly used to indicate chemical fiber filament, silk, etc. Because the fiber filament and yarn shape is irregular, and the yarn surface has hairiness (protruding fiber short hair), so we can not use the diameter to express its fineness, so the textile workers use the above indicators.
